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DYEING & FINISHING
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DYESEP |
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It is a Cationic Polymer Solution of Synergetic Blends of Active Chemicals.
PRODUCT SPECIFICATION :
It is a brown liquid.
Color intensity is not an indication of product strength.
It works very good in pH ranges between 3.0–9.0
APPLICATION :
It may be applied in a variety of ways, on 100% cotton and 50/50 cotton/polyester. Garment Dyeing and Finishing, Piece Dyeing, Pad Dry, Pad-Rinse (Dry), Pad-Batch (Rinse) (dry}, Application to Wet Goods, Slasher (Warp Dye able Size), Warp Dyeing are some of the applications in which product can be used.
When new, different, fashionable look and surface effects are required with direct, reactive dyes and others to
override and overcome disadvantages of exhaust dyeing with pigment dyeing system using direct dyes instead.
- Cross dyeing, 100% cotton knits.
- Piece dyeing with indigo.
- Perfect pigment dyeing “super Deep Shades”.
- Savings of energy, water, dye and time with
direct and reactive garment dyeing.
- Getting Stonewash effect in piece dyeing.
- Getting deep shades, improving and control
of wash fastness, wet-crock fastness lot to
lot uniformity.
- Using direct dyes in pigment dyeing with
deep shades.
- Thermo-color dyeing with neon (fluoresant)
or organic under colors with thermo-color.
- To make cotton dyeable with all anionic
dyes i.e. direct, napthols, sulfurs and
indigo ring dyeing with wrinkle and
shrink resistance.
- To cover dead and immature cotton neps in
dyeing and better union dyeing the pile and
round yarn.
- Continuous surface dyeing with reactives
with minimal processing.
- Systems for shorter dye cycles and deeper
shades practically any blend fibers as well
as modified (hi-modulus-
crystalline) viscose fibers.
SAFETY :
Dyesep is a harmless, non flammable and non toxic product.
STORAGE :
At a storage temperature of 25° C
its shelf lift is at least 12 months.
PIGMENT DYEING WITHOUT BINDER :
30-40º C 10 min. 1% non-ionic wetting agent
% 3-4 Dyesep 10 min
% 7 pigment dye 70-75 ºC pH : 9.5 30 min.
then empty the bath.
After bleaching is done on the fabric;
Non-ionic wetter equal to 1% o.w.g is added and after increasing the temperature to 30-40 ºC and washed for 10 minutes.
3-4% Dyesep is added to the same bath and washed for 10 minutes.
pH is adjusted to 9.5, 7% pigment dye is added and the temperature is increased to 70-75 º C.
Dying is done for 30 minutes. (Dying period can be changed according to the required effect).
After fixing process is done, softening process is done upon request.
NOTE: DOING THIS DYING PROCESS AT pH 5 and OBSERVE THE DIFFERENCES BETWEEN THEM.
THROUGH THIS PROCESS, PARTIAL DYEING CAN BE DONE WITHOUT LETTING THE WASHING MACHINES GET DIRTY !!!!.....
PARTIAL DYING WITH DIRECT DYES IN 5 MINUTES :
1. Use for fabrics 10% DYSESP and dried (or
sewn product).
2. Wet the sewn product with the wetter at
60°C in non-ionic environment for a short
time, and empty the bath.
3. Prepare the dyeing bath with 200 g/l normal
salt at 90° C.
4. Add the direct dye. Dye for 5 minutes (the
bath should be towed).
5. Rinse and continue the normal process.
BATIK DYING PROCESSES ON COTTON KNITTED FABRICS :
1. FABRICS ARE DAMPENED IN HOT WATER.
2. 3% o.w.g DYESEP IS WASHED AT 30 ºC FOR 10
MIN. AND RINSED.
3. 1.5% = 10 GR. SYN DIRECT BLUE FLB.
4. 50% = 250 GR. SULFATE
5. DYEING PROCESS IS IMPLEMENTED AT 50 º C
FOR 30 MIN. (THEN IT IS EMPTIED AND HOT-
COLD RINCING DONE
DYEING PROCESS :
6. THE PULLOVER IS LOOSENED, THEN IT IS
WASHED 3% DYESEP AND RINSED).
7. 1.5% = 10 GR. SYN DIRECT YELLOW RL.
50% = 250 GR. SULFATE THE 2ND DYING
PROCESS IS DONE AT 50 C FOR 30 MIN.
8. THE BATH IS EMPTY AT AND RINSING IS DONE.
NOTE: IN CASE OF ANY FLEDGING ON THE FABRICS, BIOPOLISHING PROCESS IS IMPLEMENTED.
PARTIAL DYEING WITH REACTIVE SUBSTANCE ON SPORTSWEAR :
Introductory:
Two ( 2 ) alternative methods are provided below for partial dying process with reactive substances in sportswear.
1. Appearance as Washed 50 Times :
Before dyeing 5% DYESEP is applied to the good. Dying with acid sided reactive substance is done; even if it looks like it is dyed, there is no fastness.
Then washing is done, thus the dye is swept away. During this process, most of the dye will flow away; but dark color will remain on the stitches. The remaining color is fixed through standard practice.
As a result, its stitches will look darker and the panel parts will look as they are washed namely lighter in color.
2. Appearance with Stone Washed Surface
effects :
2,5% DYETEX is applied to the good. No rinsing is done and the bath is emptied.
While the machine is operating (rotating), a new bath is prepared. For example, 5% DYESEP is given slowly proportional to the water amount while the water is supplied to the machine.
In a new bath, cold reactive dying is done. No wetting agent is used. The result will be the same as in surface dyeing.
Also feather or stone enzyme may be applied according to the effect requested to be obtained by preparing enzyme bath.
Note: Goods of heavy type other then t-shirts
should be prepared in knitted goods;
frequent knitting, thick yarn.
No-Color Dyeing Procedure :
1. Load the knitted or woven articles into the
machine. Close the discharge.
2. Give cold water, do not work (do not
rotate) the machine. When the hall of the
machine is filled with water, add 12%
Binder, 6% DYESEP and 0.25% wetting agent .
Do not work the machine until the machine
is fulled with water.
3. When the water level is completed, turn of
the water. Work the machine. (This
procedure not only prevents the time saving
but also specks and spots mottled) with the
articles to ensuring penetration of the
water as same with it’s quantity.
4. After working for 7 minutes, add slightly
the distilled (500%) 2% liquid caustic
soda. (When the bath becomes clear, it
shows that DYESEP and Binder are fully
penetrated).
5. Empty the bath, perform I cold rinsing (3
minutes).
6. Empty the articles after performing the pre-
process. Do not make squeezing. Load in
the dyeing machine.give cold water.
Note: Pre-process and giving different machines for dyeing give the machines the opportunity for staying always clean; at the same time it increases the color depth (productivity) in dyeing process. Because there will be no binder in dyeing machine there will be no problem of pigment "sticking" on the metal.
The articles must wait as met until they will he ready for the dyeing process.
7. Prepare the pigment dyeing: Dilute Thermo-
Color in hot water (if 2 colors are desired
with Neon/Florescent). Mix maximum 1.8 kg
properly per bucket. Add 7.5% DYETEX of the
pigment dye weight in the mild water and
mix it properly.
8. Start to dyeing at 38° C (or lighten "Neon"
color below). Add 0.25% wetting agent
before shirting to give the prepared dye
solution. Give it very slowly to ensure
that the neon color will he uniform.
Note: In hard waters, it may be very difficult to take the uniform paint with 1-3% Neon dyes which are given in low quantities. In this event, to smoothen "Neon" dyes penetration, (1.5-0.75% Sodium Tripoli Phosphate or Hexa Meta Phosphate and 0.5% soda ash is added.
9. Increase the bath to 50° C. Add calcium
chlorite melted in 2-3% slowly. Work for 5
minutes.
10. Dilute 1% acetic acid and add slowly. bath
is penetrated.
11. Give 2% DYESEP (diluted) at 3 stages, work
for 3 minutes. Empty and then squeeze with
centrifuge. Empty and dry.
Note: Do not apply rinsing after the painting process.
Adding View of "Natural Dye" by Use of DYESEP :
Introductory:
The purpose is to add a very elegant, softened, washed and soft appearance to knitted or woven garments.
DYESEP can be dyed with acidic reactive dyes. This dyeing has no fastness against alkali soap washing.
The fabric should be washed and fixed after it is dyed with acidic reactive dyes, dried, cut and sewn. A softened appearance on the cloth panel but darker appearance on the stitches is obtained (contrary to lighter worn appearance).
Note: As an alternative to this application, lump clothes (instead of fabric) can be dyed with reactive dyes, washed with soap and fixed.
Fabric :
1. Prepare and wash the fabric as usual.
2. Add 0.5% wetting agent (or similar), 10%
DYESEP (o.w.g.) at 71° C and rinse.
3. Add reactive dye at 60° C and start to
shrink with acetic acid.
4. Rinse and dry. the fabric is ready for
sewing.
Lump (Cloth) Washing;
1. Start to wash with soap at 38° C, adjust
the necessary temperature in order to obtain
the requested appearance and add soda.
2. Empty the bath and rinse with cold water.
3. Fix the color with salt and alkali suitable
for the dye used.
Note: This application adds a softer, comfortable, drapery and elegant appearance to the garment. This is ensured by DYESEP's feature of creating a film layer.
As a result, it coats the rough surface of the cotton which is relatively natural.
PIGMENT DYEING (Dark Colors) :
With this procedure; because the binder is given cold and it will not cause any drying "sticking" just like when giving hot on the metal, the machines will stay relatively clean. Because, washing, pre-process and fixing are performed before the dyeing process simultaneously.
It gives us the opportunity to make dyeing with other machines. Thus, it will be possible to keep the machines clean for a long period of time.
Each of the pre-process and dyeing machines could be used for the direct and reactive dyes.
Pre-process:
1. Wet the articles with 0.25% wetter in
room temperature and add 9% Binder with
9% DYESEP work for 5 minutes.
2. Give properly diluted l% liquid caustic
at 3 stages, and work for 3 minutes.
3. Give properly diluted l% liquid caustic
at 3 stages, and work for 7 minutes till
the bath is cleaned
(penetrated).
4. Perform 1 or 2 times cold rinsing
according to penetration.
Dyeing :
1. Start with 0.25% wetter in room temperature
2. Disperse the pigment dye in mild/hot
soda (maximum 1.0 kg/bucket), add DYETEX
until 7.5% of the pigment dye weight in
each bucket and mix properly.
3. Give to the machine as usual. Mix it until
the homogenous "uniform" dyeing appearance
is obtained on the article.
4. Increase the temperature to 60° C.
5. Melt 2% calcium chlorite or salt (magnesium
sulphate) in hot water; add for a small
amount and observe the effect (the effect
can be excessive in some cases). Now add
two times and observe, repeat the
addition until the bath is penetrated (if
bath penetration is not close, then add 1%).
6. Dilute 0.25% acetic acid and add. The bath
will be penetrated completely.
7. If the bath is completely penetrated, then
there is no need for rinsing. empty the
bath hall' and add cold water instead.
Light and Moderate Colors:
Full Load (according to the machine capacity) dyeing in 37 minutes.
Take the dye bath to the room temperature. Prepare the bath with 25% wetter, 0.75% sodium Tripoli phosphate, 0.5% soda ash.
Disperse the pigment dye moderate/hot water (maximum 1.8 kg/bucket). Add the paint as if it will stay in the bath.
Increase the temperature to 60° C. Melt 2% calcium chloride or salt, and add small amounts. Wait for the effects to be taken and observe.
Add two times until the bath is almost fully penetrated and repeat. Dilute 0.25% acetic acid and add to the dye bath. The bath should be completely penetrated.
Dyeing -Stone Washing Effects-Sewn Force
Woven and/or Knitted Articles :
Introduction:
The surface dyeing is performed firstly with the direct dyes in order to obtain this
effect, and inside of the thread should stay white during this process. Alter the painting process, the fabric is plunged into the cellulose enzyme bath and the fabric thus gains the aged and used look.
Application:
Do not make any pre-wash on the article.
The articles should be wetted properly, but, do not use any wetting material for this.
If necessary, use hot water. Rinse it to cool the article.
Prepare a new cold bath. Give 5% o.w.g DYESEP and then work for 10 minutes.
Prepare a new cold bath. Do not use any wetting material, use only water. Add the melted dye slowly. Add the salt slowly and in sufficient amount to penetrate the dye fully.
Important Note:
Cotton notbe dyed in cold but DYESEP
can be dyed in cold. The speed of giving salt should be proper for the movement speed of the articles for uniform dyeing process.
For example : in the part of dyeing machine, penetrating the dye in a short period of time like 6 minutes could be obtained as uniform in small trial lots.
When the dye bath is penetrated sufficiently, open the vapor and increase the temperature rapidly to 7I° C. The purpose of this is to ensure the entering cotton fiber to be swollen and the dye penetrated by DYESEP to enter cotton surface.
There is no obligation to wait in 71° C, regardless of the time period the effect will stay the same. Add 0.25% non-ionic wetter or soap (not definitely penetrate). Work for more 4 minutes. This will increase the depth of the color. Then empty and rinse.
Prepare the enzyme bath at 40-55 ºC. Add enzyme up to 0.5-2%. Adjust pH as required. Work it until the desired effect is obtained. For instance, this period is about 12 minutes in the machines with drum. Then, rinse it with cold water.
Important Note:
The enzyme bath should be performed in very low level of water in order to increase the abrasion. It is recommended to take sample and control it before emptying the bath.According to this, process is continued for obtaining a desired effect or the enzyme addition is applied.
There should be whiter (used) effect in the collars and cuffs in dressing.
Prepare a new cold bath (fixing bath); add 2% DYESEP. Work it for 10 minutes. Rinse in cold. (Give DYESEP with 2 minute intervals at 3 stages.)
Prepare a new bath in 40-55° C. Add 3% cationic softener and work it for 5-10 minutes. Empty the bath, squeeze and dry with centrifuge. (Give cationic softener with 2 minutes intervals at 3 stages.)
Important Note:
Use also a piece of woven fabric in your experiment; it will be useful in comparing this effect and seeing the accuracy. Because woven articles always give good results.
In this application, it could he used as penetrating material in the direct painting. Thus, the dye and time saving can be obtained. Use wetter together with DYESEP.
"Stone Washing" Denim Effects :
Introduction:
By means of using the reactive dyes only in this process; uniform penetration and abrasion is provided in every color and in every lot. At the same time, the brightest and deepest colours are obtained that may be present with the cotton clothes.
Process:
1. In the first preparation of fabric; only a
slight mercerisation or caustic process
(optional) is performed. A slight kosher is
made to prevent the fabric not to be much
absorbent (sizing removal, washing will not
be applied).
2. In padding, in the room temperature: 6.5%
Dyesep and 0.25% non-ionic gum (thickener)
is given (because gum is natural polymer,
it is recommended to salve one night
before). Gum increases the viscosity and
prevents Dyesep penetration into the fabric.
3. The fabric is attached in the hot
cylinders. The temperatures should be same
with the first cylinder and other
cylinders. In this manner, the surface
migration of Dyesep is ensured.
4. The dyeing process is performed in standard
procedure with reactive paints. 20 gr/l
caustic and 50 gr/l urea are added in the
dyeing bath. These proportions are
recommended for 50 gr/l dye proportions
given as attachment. The urea and caustic
amount should be determined again for
different dye proportions. Due to the
special affinity of Dyesep against the
reagents, there will be dyed only in the
some parts where there is Dyesep on fabric
surface.
When the washing is performed by turning upside down the sewn, clothing (the ready-made products), abrasion is obtained in the sewing points, pockets, front net parts and belt area or normal stone washing process could be also carried out if so required.
*The Pad/Thermofix process is recommended as the best method in the reactive dyeing.
Dyeing& Stone Wash Knitted Articles :
Introduction:
The surface dyeing is performed firstly with the direct dyes in order to obtain this effect, and inside of the thread should stay white during this process. After the dyeing process the fabric is subjected to cellulose enzyme in a shallow bath, thus the fabric gains the aged and used look.
Application:
Do not make any pre-wash on the article.
The articles should be welted properly, but, do not use any wetting agent for this. If necessary, use hot water.rinse it and get cool the goods. Give 1.5% DYESEP at 3 stages with 2 minutes intervals. Work for 10 minutes;
do not apply a rinsing process because rinsing will prevent taking a better effect.
At this stage, two options are presented:
1. The bath is emptied; a new bath is prepared
and will be continued as below.
2. This DYESEP bath is used a dye bath after
penetrating the entire DYESEP and can be
used as an obstacle to dye taking rather
then bath change. After that, it is
continued as stated in the 1st option.
Prepare the dye bath. Do not use heat in beginning and use only cold water. Because the surface dyeing is made the dye quantity in the formulation can be reduced to 40%. Prepare the dyeing directly: Firstly make it soft pastry without lumps with cold water, and then melt with very hot water. Give the melted dye to the bath as usual. Work for 3-5 minutes. Add the salt slowly and to obtain the complete penetration of the dye.
Important Note:
Cotton can not be dyed in cold water but DYESEP can be dyed in cold water completly. In this event the direct dye behaves like pigment dye.
When the dye bath is penetrated sufficiently, open the vapor and increase the temperature to 71° C rapidly.
Give 0.25% wetter material as completely melted and at 3 stages; this will increase the color depth and brightness. Work for 4 minutes, empty the bath and rinse in cold.
Prepare the enzyme bath in room temperature. The bath should be kept shallow in order to ensure maximum friction or abrasion with enzyme. More weight in the machine ensures taking better effects. Work it for 15-20 minutes by means of using 0.5-2 enzyme. Empty the bath and rinse in cold when the required effect is taken. If your knitted article is heavy then it may not be necessary to use enzyme to take the stone effect; other options can be tried.
Fix the dye by giving 2 minutes intervals at 3 stages in cold 1% DYESEP. After that, give the cationic softener at 3 stages again.
Reactive Piece Dyeing in 15 Minutes :
1. Use fabrics added 10% DYESEP a dried (or
sewn product).
2. Wet the goods for a short time at 60°C in
non-ionic environment and then empty the
bath.
3. Adjust the temperature of the dying bath
suitable for the reactive dye used. Add
this into the entire dye formulation and
wait for 2 minutes. Add the salt as 290 g/I
to the saturated bath within a period of 3
minutes. When sufficient color depth is
obtained, add the alkali required for the
dye used with double amount. Run for 4
minutes more and empty the bath.
4. This charge the goods and spin until they
are still 100% damp. Put the goods into
plastic bags and leave them in this
position for 4 hours. (There must be little
holes under the bags for the discharging of
redundant water. This is equivalent to the
dying mode in Pad/Batch system (normal
application with reactive dyes).
5. After 4 hours has passed (or more, there is
no problem), reload the good into the
machine and neutralize it with acetic acid.
Then apply the normal washing process done
for reactive dyes.
** The aim of plastic bag is to prevent the edges of the fabric from drying. So the holes should be so small that they will not let the fabric get dry and block the water flow.
Increasing the Fastness of Indigo Dyes
(Ensuring That the Pocket and Weft Yarn Stays White) with this procedure, indigo dye fastness (colour depth) is significantly increased in enzyme and/or stone washing of indigo denim jeans and also the pollution in pocket and weft yarn is minimized.
In order to obtain result, we have to add DYESEP on the outer surface (outer surface of the jeans) of the fabric. For this, please apply the following changes in your procedure:
1. Prepare DYESEP application bath by
adjusting pH 9.5 (DYESEP is more rapidly
absorbed by the fabric at high pHs).
2. Add the diluted DYESEP continuously and
slowly in a period of 15 minutes. (1%
o.w.g.)
DYESEP added into the bath under these conditions will be immediately absorbed to the outer surface of the jeans and it will be prevented front penetrating into the cloth without remaining in the bath.
Observe which one provides the best solution by using the above stated process in stone washing and/or enzyme bath with and without antiredep or dispersing agent .
"STOP OR MINIMISE CROCKING " Jeans Washing Procedure :
Friction/Crocking Fastness :
Introductory:
Do not use soap, detergent or any other surface active material.
Fastness removal:
For this process, use a bath ratio of 1:20 (flotte).
1. Add the enzyme normally, do not use wetter.
Add 2% amoniac into the enzyme and increase
the temperature to 60°C run for 20 minutes.
Rinse until the bath is clear.
Treatment:
2. Prepare a new bath. (With acetic acid
adjust pH 5-6) do not supply water before
adding the chemicals into the machine.
Supply the water together with the
chemicals. When the jeans are weted with
water they will absorb the chemicals.
Good results can be obtained in this way ;
Add 0,5% diluted acetic acid. 2,5% DYESEP
and 2,5% Binder (diluted and premixed) at
38°C. Run for 10 minutes under ambient
temperature. Increase the temperature to
60-70°C and additionally run for another
10 minutes.
3. Empty the bath, slightly spin. Do not rinse.
4. Prepare a new bath under ambient
temperature. Add 1% DYESEP. 1% Binder (non-
ionic and/or cationic acrylic) and 0.25%
acetic acid as stated in Article 2. Run for
7 minutes. Increase the temperature 49°C
and additionally run for another 7 minutes.
5. Empty the bath, spin completely and dry the
good.
6. After the jeans are dried, continue running
under maximum temperature for the fixing
of “DYESEP/BINDER” (A fastness/crocking of
2 to 4-5 should be obtained as wet or dry).
In order to obtain a good crocking fastness, the fixing should be done properly.
Note: If possible, in order to create a standard for the jeans in the tumble dryer. Keep a dry piece of fabric at 80-120°C for 3 minutes in the drying train at the laboratory. |
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